── The Reason This Model is Being Chosen Now, Revealed by Our Order History
At JLC Handmade, we craft bespoke straps for a variety of luxury watch brands. Over the past year, we've observed a distinct shift in trends.
The fact is that orders for Cartier Santos Dumont straps have surpassed those for the Santos de Cartier, becoming our #1 ordered strap type for designs with embedded parts.
In this article, we'll explore why demand for Santos Dumont straps has risen so significantly, combining insights from our production floor with observations of market movements.
Our Order Trend: Santos Dumont Overtakes Santos de Cartier
Cartier's "Santos" line primarily consists of two distinct models: the practical Santos de Cartier, often equipped with an automatic movement, and the more slender, classical Santos Dumont, featuring quartz or manual-winding movements. Both boast Cartier's proprietary QuickSwitch mechanism, allowing for effortless strap changes without tools.
The Santos de Cartier has garnered widespread appeal due to its practicality, offering the versatility of both a steel bracelet and a leather strap. In contrast, the Santos Dumont captivates with its slim profile and refined design. Standard models are fitted with high-precision quartz movements, while XL and limited editions feature the manual-winding Calibre 430 MC, both embodying the dignity of a dress watch. Owners of the Santos Dumont traditionally favored long-term appreciation over casual strap swapping.
However, our order data reveals that strap orders for the Santos Dumont have now surpassed those for the Santos de Cartier. Furthermore, a significant portion of these orders are for straps with embedded parts – meaning special-shaped straps that integrate seamlessly, much like genuine Cartier straps. The QuickSwitch mechanism, enabling easy changes, makes the strategy of "preserving the original strap and enjoying a custom one daily" a practical reality.
Reason 1: The Synergy Between the Neo-Vintage Trend and the Santos Dumont
In the Japanese watch market, the "Neo-Vintage" trend has accelerated in recent years. This marks a shift from the large, thick cases of sports watches like the Submariner and Speedmaster back to thinner, more classical designs.
The Santos Dumont is at the heart of this trend. With its slim 7.3mm profile, its history as the world's first wristwatch created in 1904, and its square case encapsulating Art Deco aesthetics, an increasing number of individuals in the Tokyo and Osaka watch scenes are choosing the Santos Dumont as their "next watch" after sports watches.
Reason 2: The Prominence of the Black Lacquer Model
Orders from customers who own the Black Lacquer (WSSA0046) model are particularly noticeable among our clientele.
This model features a steel case with a black lacquer bezel and case top, giving it a distinctive presence that sets it apart from standard Santos Dumont watches. It is not easily available at authorized dealers, and full-set examples are circulated on platforms like Chrono24 at prices exceeding 1,000,000 yen.
We believe that its scarcity and the tendency for owners to be conscious of its asset value contribute to the idea of "preserving the original strap and using a custom strap for daily wear."
Reason 3: Rising Pre-Owned Market Value of the Santos Dumont
The value of the Santos Dumont in the pre-owned market has been on an upward trend in recent years. This is due to a combination of factors:
Cartier's Regular Price Adjustments: Cartier implements global price revisions of about 5-7% annually, with multiple adjustments between 2024 and 2026. As the retail price of new watches increases, the prices in the pre-owned market also tend to rise in conjunction.
Introduction of Limited Editions and Art Dials: Cartier consistently introduces new expressions for the Santos Dumont each year. Examples include the lacquer dials in 2022, the peacock blue and olive green precious metal models in 2024, and the 18K yellow gold model with an obsidian dial (estimated price 8.58 million yen) announced at Watches and Wonders in 2026. These developments elevate the overall appeal of the collection.
Limited Supply: Particularly for popular models like the Black Lacquer, the volume available through official channels is restricted. This situation, where demand outstrips supply, helps maintain and increase prices in the pre-owned market.
In such circumstances, maintaining a "full set in mint condition" has become a practical choice for Santos Dumont owners.
The Smart Owner's Choice: Preserve the Original Strap, Use a Custom Strap for Daily Wear
Many Santos Dumont owners who order from us share the following mindset:
Store the Original Strap Unused ── A Strategy Made Possible by QuickSwitch
While Cartier's genuine crocodile straps are of high quality, being leather products, they will inevitably deteriorate with use. In the Japanese pre-owned market, the assessment value clearly differs depending on whether the "original strap is unused (Unworn)."
The Santos Dumont features a QuickSwitch mechanism, making the process of removing the original strap and replacing it with a custom strap immediately after purchase take mere seconds. No tools or special skills are required. This means that the entire process of "unboxing, storing the original, and attaching a custom strap" can be completed on the very day of purchase. This ease of use allows anyone to practically implement rational asset preservation, with an eye towards future resale or upgrades.
Optimize Cost and Time ── Faster and Smarter, Without Leaving Your Watch
Exchanging an original strap can involve taking it to a boutique and waiting for a period. During this time, your beloved watch is not with you. With our bespoke service, there is no need to entrust us with your watch. We will produce and deliver the strap while your watch remains with you.
Furthermore, our production costs are 20-30% more affordable than genuine straps when comparing materials and finishes of equivalent quality. While keeping costs down, the options for materials, colors, stitching, and shapes are more extensive than genuine straps. The rational choice of "getting a more personalized strap for the same budget" is supported by many Santos Dumont owners.
Personalization ── Stand Out with "Colors Not Available in Genuine Straps"
Santos Dumont owners often have a strong sense of personal style. While genuine straps offer limited choices in black or brown, custom straps allow for combinations of materials and colors not found in the original lineup, such as shell cordovan, lizard, or Himeji Kurozan leather. Choosing a strap to match a suit, belt, or shoes – that freedom is the true value of bespoke craftsmanship over mass-produced items.
About Inserted-Part Straps
The most frequently ordered strap for the Santos Dumont from our shop is the "inserted-part" specification. This design integrates the spring bars and end pieces within the strap, similar to genuine Cartier straps.
With typical generic straps, gaps can form between the case and the strap, or the metal fittings at the attachment point may be visible. With inserted-part straps, the end of the strap is molded to match the case shape, achieving a seamless integration comparable to genuine products.
Especially for classical watches like the Santos Dumont, this "seamless integration" significantly influences the overall aesthetic. We custom-make each strap to fit the specific case shape of the customer's watch.
Seamless integration with the case thanks to embedded-part specification
Our Production Capabilities
At our shop, we handle special shapes and specifications beyond just Santos Dumont straps, including the following:
Inserted Parts
We integrate spring bars and end pieces into the strap, achieving the same level of seamless integration as genuine products. This is our most common order for Santos Dumont.
Curved End Finish
The attachment part of the strap is shaped to follow the curve of the case. This eliminates gaps with the case, resulting in a cohesive appearance.
Convex and Concave Shapes
The cross-sectional shape of the strap can be finished as convex (center raised) or concave (center recessed). You can choose according to the watch's design and your preferred wearing comfort.
Materials such as crocodile, shell cordovan, calfskin, lizard, and Himeji Kurozan leather are available in a wide range of choices.
Reference for Materials and Colors that Suit Your Santos Dumont
For those who are unsure about "which material or color suits my Santos Dumont," we offer a Colour Coordination page. You can view combination examples tailored to the case color and dial of the Santos Dumont.
Example of coordination with a custom strap
Order a Strap for Your Santos Dumont
We accommodate special shapes such as embedded parts, curved ends, convex, and concave designs.
You can choose from various materials including crocodile, shell cordovan, and calf.
Feel free to inquire about materials, shapes, embedded parts, and any other questions before ordering.
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