Burgundy Shell Cordovan
Turned Edge, Curved End, and Base Watch Strap for Smiths Watch
── Our Most Challenging Production Case to Date
Is a turned edge finish possible for a shell cordovan watch strap? In short, yes, it is. However, for a leather craftsman, it's a job they "want to take on, but cannot easily accept." The order we received from a customer who deeply loves their Smiths Watch was for a burgundy shell cordovan watch strap with a tapered + curved end + turned edge + double stitch + pointed tip + base, making it the most challenging strap in our production history. In this article, we'll explain why this combination is so difficult and how we achieved its completion.
The customer had a deep affection for their Smiths Watch. Their request to "create a one-of-a-kind strap befitting this watch" marked the beginning of a full custom order, with meticulous attention to every detail of material, shape, finish, and features.
To be honest, when we heard the specifications, our concern wasn't "whether we could do it," but "whether the customer would accept the estimate." Condensing all these specifications into one strap requires considerable time and skill. However, as craftsmen, it's opportunities like these where we can truly shine.
Product Specifications
| Compatible Model | Smiths Watch |
| Upper Material | Burgundy Shell Cordovan |
| Shape | Tapered (18mm→16mm) + Curved End Finish |
| Stitching | Double Stitch |
| Construction | Turned Edge |
| Tip Type | Pointed Tip |
| Option | With Base |
Smiths Watch — Britain's Last Mechanical Military Watch
Smiths is a British watch and instrument manufacturer. It is known for the watch worn by Sir Edmund Hillary during the first ascent of Mount Everest in 1953. For military watches, the W10, supplied to the British Ministry of Defence from 1967 to 1970, is famous and highly regarded by vintage watch enthusiasts as the last British military mechanical wristwatch equipped with a British movement.
With a compact 35mm case, a black dial with white Arabic numerals focused on legibility, and a railroad minute track, this watch embodies robust British aesthetics. Its small lug width of 16mm is also a distinguishing feature. This 16mm width became the starting point for this order.
Overcoming the 16mm Constraint — Designing Tapered and Curved Ends
The customer's consultation began with the feeling that "a 16mm strap feels a bit too narrow." For a man's wrist, a 16mm wide strap can sometimes appear delicate. However, the lug width of the Smiths Watch is fixed at 16mm.
Therefore, we proposed making the strap body 18mm wide and tapering it down to 16mm only at the attachment points. Furthermore, by combining this with a curved end finish, we achieved a seamless integration with the case, creating the impression that the 18mm strap naturally extends from the case. This design maintains the elegant aesthetic of vintage watches while ensuring a substantial look when worn.
Why This Strap Is Our "Most Challenging"
The difficulty of this strap lies not in each individual specification, but in the fact that they are all required simultaneously on shell cordovan material.
Shell Cordovan ── The Hardness of the "Diamond of Leather"
Shell cordovan is a dense fiber layer taken from the rump of a horse, vegetable-tanned for 6-9 months, and then hand-polished by craftsmen to create its unique luster. It is a rare material produced by only a handful of tanneries worldwide, and is known as the "diamond of leather." In exchange for its beauty, it is incomparably harder than calfskin or crocodile leather, requiring high precision for bending and skiving processes.
Turned Edge ── A Craftsmanship That Tests the Artisan's Skill
Turned edge is a finishing method where the edge of the leather is thinly skived and folded inward, hiding the raw edge. Compared to edge painting (polishing the raw edge), it results in a more elegant and refined finish. However, it demands millimeter-level precision in every step, including the accuracy of skiving the folded part, the amount of force applied during folding, and the uniformity of adhesion. While many workshops can handle this with soft calfskin, very few workshops can accept a turned edge finish with hard, dense shell cordovan. If the skiving is too shallow, it cannot be folded; if it's too deep, the leather will tear. Achieving a turned edge with this material is one of the tasks that most clearly demonstrates a leather craftsman's skill.
The Difficulty of Condensing Everything into One Piece
Tapered (18→16mm), curved end, turned edge, double stitch, pointed tip, with base. Each of these specifications alone requires considerable effort, but they were all requested simultaneously for a single strap. Beautifully flowing turned edges on the tapered sections. Uniform double stitching on the three-dimensional curved ends. A base fitted to a size that hides beneath the case. This production involved a chain reaction where achieving one specification increased the difficulty of another.
Production Process (Skiving, Turned Edge, Stitching, etc.)
The Finish of the Burgundy Shell Cordovan
The burgundy (deep reddish-purple) shell cordovan chosen by the customer adds a touch of British elegance to the military aesthetic of the Smiths Watch. The unique deep luster of shell cordovan further accentuates the clean edge lines of the turned-edge finish.
Cordovan is a material that polishes over time, developing a deep patina as it is used. This strap, too, will become one with the Smiths Watch on the customer's wrist over time.
Finished Strap (Turned Edge, Curved End, Pointed Tip Details)
Attached to Smiths Watch
As Craftsmen
When we heard the specifications, to be honest, I thought, "This is a rewarding job." Our concern wasn't the technical hurdles, but whether the customer would accept the estimate for a production condensing so many specifications.
Handmade work requires a significant amount of time and concentration. However, if we are given that space—we will deliver. This strap reminded us of that once again. I believe that by looking at the photos of the finished product, you can see how much dedication we put into this work.
Frequently Asked Questions
Q. Is it possible to produce a watch strap with a turned-edge finish using shell cordovan?
Yes, at JLC Handmade, we offer turned-edge finishes for shell cordovan. However, shell cordovan is a very hard and dense leather from the rump of a horse, making it significantly more difficult to bend and manipulate compared to typical calfskin or crocodile leather. A turned edge is a technique where the leather's edge is thinly skived and folded inward, but with cordovan, high levels of skill are required for all steps: the precision of skiving, the amount of force applied during folding, and the adhesion process. Therefore, while it takes more time and incurs additional costs for production, the elegant finish achieved is unparalleled by other construction methods.
Q. Can a wide strap be fitted even if my Smiths Watch has a 16mm lug width?
Yes, it is possible. We address this by making the main part of the strap 18mm wide and tapering it down to 16mm only at the attachment points. By combining this with a curved end finish, we can maintain integration with the case while achieving both visual volume and wearing comfort. Vintage watches like the Smiths Watch often have small cases and narrow lug widths, so this tapered + curved end combination is an effective way to significantly change the visual impression.
Q. What is a watch strap with a base?
A base is a small pad placed at the attachment point of the strap, positioned between the watch case back and the strap. The base slightly lifts the watch, making it conform better to the curve of the wrist and improving wearing comfort. In this order, the base was adjusted to a size that would not protrude from under the case, achieving a balance that hides the base from view while ensuring comfort during wear. For vintage watches, owners often prioritize visual integration, making such fine size adjustments important.
For Material and Color Selection
In addition to shell cordovan, you can choose materials such as crocodile, calf, and lizard to match your watch. Our Colour Coordination page offers examples of material and color combinations tailored for various watch models.
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Order Process
Even for highly challenging productions like this one, the order process is the same as usual. Please contact us first via our online shop or LINE. We will inquire about your desired materials, shape, finish, and options, then provide you with an estimate. For special specifications such as turned edge shell cordovan, we will explain the additional production time and costs in advance.
Order a Custom Strap
We accommodate various materials, shapes, and finishes.
We also accept challenging specifications such as turned edge, curved end, tapered, and base.
Feel free to ask any questions about materials, finishes, or shapes before placing your order.
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